#3507 | Wherever you go, there you are.
9 thoughts on elusive daily routines, creative initiatives, copper, and cake.
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Hello lovelies!
It's hard to believe that I've already been in Lisbon for coming on two weeks. There have been expectations met...and there have been expectations not met. But that is always the way...the difference between the new life you plan in your head versus the IRL of it all. That is one advantage of the "wisdom of age" that I do find useful...one knows going in that it's never going to be as one envisions. The disappointments of reality are tempered by this advance knowledge and one can more easily roll with the punches...not that there have been any punches, mind you.
I have not a single regret...but...every last one of my daily routines has been tossed in the air...and that's been, shall we say, interesting. Slowly but surely, some new routines are taking hold, ginger tea and Qi Gong in the morning, amongst them. Strangely, the one routine that I thought would be my anchor, the writing of this newsletter, has been the most elusive. I miss my nice big desktop screen and my comfy, ergonomically correct chair! It turns out that I do not like writing in cafés...too noisy, too distracting. And carting that laptop up and down those insane flights of steps is just plain wrong! And I'm in Lisbon! So much to see...so much to do...so little time!
But, my friends, just know that I think about you every day! And even though my rhythms have all been thrown out of whack...I will continue to work on getting the flow of this thing back on a more even keel. So...onwards!
BAIXA HOUSEâŠ
One thing I was smart enough to do was to set myself up with a bit of a soft landing here in Lisbon. I have been ensconced in a most aesthetically pleasing spot where they bring me cake every day! In fact...I would simply like to move in and call it a day...new life sorted...that was easy! Sadly, this will not work with the budget however...and, truth be toldâŠdowntown Lisbon is a very very noisy place!
JOSĂ CUEVAS...
Side note...I was tootling around the Baixa House IG and found the work of Berlin-based photographer, José Cuevas (they've had many interesting guests staying here)...
DEPOZITO...
So far my favorite shop, by far, has been Depozito. I was not familiar with the name, but after a chat with one of the charming people working there, I learned that it is part of an ambitious partnership between the creators of A Vida Portuguesa, a group of beautifully designed shops of which I was familiar, and Portugal Manual, a network of new Portuguese artisans.
A Vida Portuegesa have transformed what used to be their storage facility in an old brutalist-style foundry building into a shop where traditional handmade Portuguese products coexist, side by side, with the work of new artisans, in addition to providing space for research and workshops that promote and revitalize the best of Portugal's craftsmanship...and it is stunningly lovely and beautifully merchandised!
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LOULĂ CREATIVO...
One thing that really caught my eye, while perusing the wares, were some hand-hammered copper pieces. The tags on them...Loulé Creativo...piqued my interest so I dug a little more into where they came from and who made them.
LoulĂ© Creativo is an initiative that was launched by the LoulĂ© Municipal Council in 2015 to bring together a Creative Tourism program that "supports the training and activity of artisans and professionals in the creative sector, contributing to the revitalization of traditional arts and to the promotion of new approaches to the intangible heritage". The program was the first of its kind in Portugal and has been a resounding success. In 2019 the group took up residence in the newly renovated PalĂĄcio Gama Lobo, an 18th century manor house in LoulĂ©âs town centre, where they have a gallery space, a small shop, and multiple spaces for workshops, residencies, and their design lab program. I am now planning a little jaunt to LoulĂ© to check it out!
"The land is the strength and source of creation, a motive for cross-disciplinary connections and dialogue and the encounter of people. The land is understood as something physical, a place that is both plural and singular, a unit of the symbolic, the origin and possibility of a sustainable future."
FROM ANALIDE JOAQUIM CORREIA DO CARMO...
Loulé native, Analide do Carmo, first learned the craft of coppersmithing as a boy, but eventually left it in order to work in the better-paying cement industry, where he was employed for 43 years. Much to his pleasure, after his retirement, he was invited by Loulé Creativo to help revive the coppersmithing craft in the region and, as one of the last surviving coppersmiths in the area, he happily took them up on their offer. Today, apart from teaching his beloved craft, he makes and sells handmade copper pieces such as the traditional cataplana pan used for local cuisine...and, once again, the townsfolk can hear the sound of beating copper!
âIt was like a dream, after 43 years without practising, I made a pan. Those who know never forget!â
One of his favorite pieces to make, the cataplana is a unique vessel consisting of two concave hinged parts that are hand-hammered out of heavy copper sheets, and closed with latches. Once sealed inside, the food is cooked hermetically by steaming slowly at low temperatures giving it a unique flavor. Here is an easy recipe for a Portuguese seafood stew (also called a cataplana) that was adapted by Americaâs Test Kitchen (and doesnât require the special pan to make)âŠ
...TO HEINZ-JĂRGENÂ CRAMER
As I dug a little further I realized that the pieces I had admired at Depozito were the work of Heinz-JĂŒrgen Cramer. Armed with a background in mechanical engineering after a career spent working in the German automobile industry, and a budding fascination with the rich coppersmithing heritage of his newly adopted home of LoulĂ©, he had decided to take a workshop with the master at the LoulĂ© Creativo that ended up opening a whole new chapter in his life. Today, in addition to teaching and continuing to work with Analide do Carmo in the making of traditional pieces, he has been pushing boundaries and bringing innovation to the craft by experimenting with conceptual ideas and modernizing the designs of old pieces.
TOINO ABELâŠ
In addition to the copper pieces, the other thing that particularly caught my eye was the work of Toino AbelâŠ
Started in 2010 in Berlin, founder Nuno Henriques (the company is named after his grandfather) moved the enterprise to the village of Castanheira in the Portuguese countryside in 2013 to work alongside the very best remaining, but rapidly aging, craftspeople and to bring the almost lost Portuguese tradition of soft-rush weaving forward in new contemporary ways. By gradually refining the process and elevating the quality and craftsmanship of every step, he continues to work to keep this centuries-old tradition alive...and since his arrival there are now three times more producers than when he started. This beautifully shot short film by Dinis Santos shows the process from start to finish.
LISBOAâŠ
I feel that I've accidentally tapped into a rich vein that I've only just begun to scratch the surface of...but I am so impressed with what I've learned so far about the energy and passion with which new generations of Portuguese designers and craftspeople are embracing their culture and investing in moving it forward. This most definitely demands further exploration...so stay tuned! In the meantimeâŠhere are a few shots from my explorations in this fabulous tiled city of magical lightâŠ
CAFĂ O CORVOâŠ
And this, my friends, is my current favorite cafe which sits tucked away in a tiny little square at the top of a big climbâŠno cars in sight, excellent coffee, lovely people, good playlist, and delicious foodâŠwhat more is there?!
Thank you all for reading...let me know if you have any thoughts!
xo,
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Mood board credits: 1-9 The vanished fishing culture of Portugal, 1950s
So excited to see more of Portugal through your eyes, thanks to this new move of yours! Best of luck while settling in! â€ïž
Hi Anne, lovely news letter. Iâm pleased youâve got your wings! Lisbon looks beautiful! Qi Gong, tea and cake sound very pleasant. Enjoy the new life.